Day 20: Pizza!

Today, we met at the hotel for lectures and discussions during the morning. Then, we were given the afternoon off to scout around! First, I went back to Pompeii for one last look. Who knows when I will be back to see these amazing ruins? I looked more closely at a few homes that we did not get to see during our two day tour and I reexamined the forum.

It was extremely hot today - 98 degrees. So, after a two-hour visit to Pompeii, I hopped on a train and headed to Sorrento. There, I took a short self-guided walk (with the help of Rick Steve's guidebook!) and ate authentic Italian pizza at a quaint little restaurant. The interior was set in an air-conditioned garden - my favorite kind of garden on a 98-degree day! Check out my lunch: a Four Seasons pizza.

I ate the WHOLE thing myself.

Oh yes, I did. It was amazing!

Tomorrow, another free day. I may just hang around the hotel. I might head back to Naples. Depends on how I feel in the morning. It is supposed to be over 100 degrees tomorrow! Sunday morning, we leave for Rome. What do you think I should do?

Day 18: Ischia

Ischia is a small island off the coast of Sorrento. Known mostly for its extensive spas, it also houses some ancient Greek ruins. These Greeks lived in Ischia before the Romans moved in. Some of the pottery we saw today was over 7000 years old!

Some really, really old pottery.

Spa de Negombo

In the afternoon, we were able to tour the island. A few of us went to a local spa named Negombo. A spa in Italy is more like an adult water park: beach, pools, spring-fed water holes, shady areas for naps.

My favorite pool was number 2 - toward to the top left hand side of the poster.

This pool is up on the top of the mountain.

Take a look of the view from our lounging area.

This is a lovely little slice of relaxation after a long three weeks of work! Sunday, we head out for Rome. Friday and Saturday are mostly free days. ckeck to see my first experiences with Napoli pizza!

Day 17: Modern Day Stabia

Today, we began a few less intense days at the Institute. We are mostly staying indoors at the Vesuvian Institute for lectures, presentations, and discussions. So, I want to show you some of the local sights and sounds from modern-day Stabia, a small rural suburb of Naples.


Laundry Day
Our Institute is located within a residential area. The streets are very narrow, surrounded by apartment buildings. One day, when walking back from the train station, the alley between the apartment complexes was filled with color. It must have been laundry day.

From each level of the apartment building, peoples’ laundry billowed in the warm breeze.

 

Gelato

Gelato, a yummy equivalent to Italian ice cream, is a refreshing treat on a hot summer day.

Here I am enjoying my first authentic Italian gelato: limon!

Day 16: Pompeii, Part Due (Two in Italian!)

I am two days behind on blogging, so I have posted both day 15 and 16 at the same time. Check out my visit to Postiano underneath this one!

Today, two things really stood out to me during out second visit to Pompeii (see day 10 for first trip). First, I am in awe of the outdoor spaces in some of the ancient homes we have seen. The lovely peristilios or peristyles in these lavish homes were wonderful outdoor spaces to entertain guests. Check out a few of my favorites:

In the home of Octavius Quartio, two long arbor-covered passageways

flank the slender pool and fountain area. Off to opposite side of the fountain,

the home consisted of green spaces where people could create outdoor rooms

or small walking spaces. While it does not have a lot of flowering blooms,

the grape vines resting gently on the lattice-work above created a monochromatic color scheme

that was so peaceful and enjoyable!

The garden peristilio toward the back of the House of Amorini Dorati

gives off a more elegant image. The garden is decorated with large engraved marble reliefs (or slabs)

and the sculpture evokes elements of the natural world.

Again, a beautiful garden entertainment center or retreat.

The second thing about Pompeii that caught my attention was the Villa of the Mysteries. This house is a large rural residence near the outer lying areas of Pompeii. It was a working farm but also contained over 90 rooms! The one room that has caused the most intrigue is the triclinium or dining room. Along the walls of the dining room is a large wall painting depicting a mysterious ritual. Some scholars believe this is a women’s initiation into marriage. Others say that it might be the partial imagery from a cultic ritual. No one knows for sure. Here are some of the images:

See the young woman standing on the left of the painting?

Some people say that she is the women represented

in all of the images, others say she is one of many symbols used for womanhood.

This is the center scene from the wall painting. Part of the fresca was

destroyed during the eruption. This image is supposedly Dionysis, the god of wine and fertility,

and his wife, Ariadne. This missing portion of the wall painting contributes to the mystery of the

room and the potential meaning of the fresca.

This continues to journey or rite of passage of the young girl.

This was the most difficult panel to see with limited access to the room.

Finally, this is said to be the young girl all grown up

and now a mature, respected Roman matron.

Day 15: Positano

With its black stone beaches, the blue-green sea water, the streets covered with veils of bougainvillea, Positano might be one of the most beautiful places on earth. Sunday was a free day from the rigors of intellectual searching. Today, we visited Positano, a small city on the Almafi Coast. Here are a few shots from our fun day of sea bathing, shopping, and eating Italian cuisine!

Here, I am standing in front of my first view of Positano.

If you are thinking of planning a romantic getaway, Positano is the place. On the right,

the homes and hotels of the city are nestled into the mountain side. On the left,

the rugged terrain of the mountains and spotty groups of pines rise majestically

from the turquoise waves. In the bay below, yachts and ships dock slightly off shore while

sun kissed people frolic in the waves.

My NEH friends, Nadine, Allison, and Duzie (left to right, Teri is behind the camera)

lounge under large umbrellas. We are taking a quick break from splashing in the waves.

This is the walkway that led from the beach front back to the village.

The natural lattice work helped support the colorful blossoms of bougainvillea. Beautiful!

For lunch, I ordered a Caprese Salad (pictured above).

The fresh taste of the tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil,

balsamic vinegar, and basil created a savory culinary experience!

Just describing it makes my taste buds water!

Day Twelve and Thirteen: Farm Villas, Amphitheathers, and Mt. Vesuvius, oh my!

Yesterday and today, we traveled all over the Naples area to visit many different sites. Yesterday, we visited three ancient rural farm ruins. The first two ruins were located in more elaborate summer vacation homes that just happened to have a farm attached. The final farm ruin was more of a working farm in which almost every room of the home was used for farm production.

Here are a few pictures of the rural farm house:

These cisterns are placed in the ground to hold grape juice. The grape juice would

then ferment causing an extraordinary event to occur: wine making!

Today, we visited numerous sites as well. We visited another site that claims to be the Grotto of Sybil, the prophetess of Apollo (see day 10 for details). This site was even spookier than the last. We entered a dark, deep tunnel. At the end of about 150 yards, we reached a small doorway leading to an even more confining space. Down at the bottom of the tunnel was a small river. Some scholars think that ancient people believed that this was the entrance to the Underworld. The small river was the River Styx, the river that all souls used to enter the Underworld. Very spooky.

Could this be the ancient entrance to the Underworld?

We also traveled to Mount Vesuvius today. This is the active volcano that wiped out both Pompeii and Herculaneum. We drove most of the way to the top and then climbed about 300 yards up to the summit. We were able to see most of the Bay of Naples area - even Pompeii from the top. Also, the crater was huge. It was also VERY cool (literally!). The mountain had these lovely flowering trees that smelled like juniper. On the way up the mountain, I could smell the fragrant breeze. The cool air caressed my face. The crater in the volcano was massive. When the volcano blew in 79 A.D., it blew about 1/3 of the mountain off the top and into the air. The crater is a reminder of this powerful force of nature.  

Here I am with Vesuvius in the background.

My camera battery died of the way up the mountain!

I look pretty dead myself!

(Maybe it was all that journeying into the Underworld!)

Tomorrow, we head to Herculaneum. This is a small town that was destroyed by lava from Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Also, some ancient papyrii scrolls were found here. Scholars have been working for centuries to try and restore them so we can read and learn more about ancient culture.

Day Eleven: Museum of Naples

Day Eleven: Museum of Naples


Today, we travelled to the Museum of Naples. The museum houses many of the relics taken from the homes in Pompeii and Herculaneum. The frescos, or wall paintings, mosaics, and statues that once were part of ancient Roman houses were cut out of the existing walls on the original site and moved to a save location for preservation. Many of these pieces are now in museums around the world. Here are some interesting ones:

Here is an example of a wall painting completed in second style. This stage of the home décor

tried to act as a mirror to reflect a world of glamour outside of itself.

During this style, the homeowner used extravagant murals in more private spaces

of the home where the homeowner would take special and privileged persons.

When these large scenes were in a small place, it made the space feel luxurious.

Here is an example of a wall painting completed in third style.

During this style, the walls reflect simple framed panels with an elegant

decorative frame in the center of the panel. Most of the time, the framed artwork

would reflect a mythological scene.

This bronze sculpture of a dancer was found,

along with eight other similar sculptures, in one specific house

in Pompeii. Note the painted eyes and the red markings at the bottom of her shirt.

Check out the red markings up close:

In Ancient Rome, artists would paint bronze and marble statues - so what

we see today in museums would pale in comparison

to the beautiful colors and images of ancient sculpture in its original setting.

This is a multicolored marble sculpture of Isis, the Egyptian goddess

worshiped all throughout the Greco-Roman world. Here, she is pictured with a

ebony tunic and more traditional marbled skin tone. I have never seen a marble statue

with a two-toned color representation. I think it's beautiful.

And speaking of Isis, here are the remains of her temple located in Pompeii:

Now, check out the Museum of Naples reconstructed model of what Isis's temple would have

look liked during the height of Pompeii:

This model was located in the center of a huge room. Every detail of the ancient

temple was reconstructed and brought to life. Some of the roofing

was removed so outsiders could take a look inside the rooms.

Tomorrow, we head to the rural parts of Stabia and visit two ancient farms. Farming was a huge part of the ancient lifestyle. Over 75 percent of the population was in agriculture. We should learn a lot about how the average person spent his or her day.